By Dena Nechkash
Sometimes it is easier to just stay at home in winter, where it’s warm and familiar. But then sometimes your system needs to be recharged, shocked into action. Winter is only cold and unbearable if you make it so. Wearing the right gear, you can do anything in the cold! And Southwest Wisconsin has plenty to offer in winter.
After weeks of being too busy to explore something new, or letting the weather dictate what I did or didn’t do, I managed to escape to a winter wonderland in Vernon County on Valentine’s Day. And it was a magical day of getting lost and finding hidden gems at the Kickapoo Valley Reserve.
While looking online for ice formations to explore in northern Wisconsin last year, I stumbled across the Kickapoo Valley Reserve’s ice formations and hiking options. I wasn’t able to visit last winter, but made the time to get there this year. And I wasn’t disappointed! The drive from Platteville was under two hours, the trails were easy enough to manage (if you go into it expecting lots and lots of hills) and after a day of exploring I was still able to make it home for supper.
Below you should find all of the details you will need to plan your own ice hiking adventure in the Kickapoo Valley Reserve!
Located just north of LaFarge in Vernon County, the Kickapoo Valley Reserve is an 8,569 acre parcel of public land preserving the high scenic hills, bluffs and rock outcroppings that rise several hundred feet above the river valley floor. The Kickapoo River meanders wildly throughout the reserve, zig-zagging south and west for miles before emptying into the Wisconsin River near Wauzeka.
The LaFarge area was occupied by the Kickapoo tribe until early settlers arrived in the late 1830s. LaFarge was continually flooded and, in 1962, through the Flood Control Act, Congress enacted the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to build a flood control dam, what was known as the LaFarge Lake Project. The land was purchased, the homes and buildings removed and construction began on an earthen dam. At only 39 percent complete, the dam project was halted in 1975 due to economic and environmental concerns. Learn more about what happened here – I assure you there is a LOT more to this story.
The property was untouched for 20 years, during which nature gradually reclaimed the land. In 1996, approximately 1,200 acres were returned to the Ho-Chunk Nation and the remainder was turned over to the State of Wisconsin to preserve the land.
Now the property is open for public recreational use, including snowmobile, horseback riding, hiking, biking, bird watching and more. There is a fee to use the park. Find out more here.
The Kickapoo Valley Reserve Center, located one mile north of LaFarge on Hwy. 82, should be your first stop when you arrive at the Kickapoo Valley Reserve. They have restrooms, maps, brochures and a great interpretation center explaining the important aspects of the reserve, including Native American lifestyle in the region, ecological importance and the flooding history. My favorite part was learning about the proposed dam and how the project was scrapped to preserve rare wildlife and artifacts. There’s a great image on display of the newspaper coverage of a fake funeral for all of the Congress members in charge of the project who took the peoples’ land.
In winter, the reserve is a hub of recreational activities, including cross country skiing, snowshoeing, hiking, biking, snowmobiling, bird watching, horseback riding and ice hiking. This article focuses on the ice hiking, although I can’t wait to visit in warmer weather to explore more of their trails and glimpse the park from my kayak on the Kickapoo River.
I actually used to live in Viola, just minutes away from the KVR, yet this was my first hiking adventure there. I’ve seen quite a few people posting online that they visited on the weekends this winter, so I purposefully planned my trip for a Monday with temps in the teens. The trails seemed well-traveled, too, and some were a little icy after thawing and refreezing. We even got a light dusting of snow that morning, which looked beautiful on the ice features.
I arrived at 11 a.m. and was the first person to visit the Weister Creek ice formations. I even drove past the parking area because I wasn’t really sure if it was the right spot. Once on the trail, it was only a half-mile hike to find the icy hillside. Spectacular! It was worth the visit. It reminded me of the Eben Ice Caves in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.
Finding the second ice formation area was a little more challenging for me, mainly because I didn’t follow instructions. I got to the trailhead and just started walking on the well-traveled trail thinking I was where I needed to be. Nope. I ended up at the dam site and then found the covered bridge before I found my mistake on the map. I needed the West Ridge Trail, not the Old 131 Trail. The trailhead for both is at the same location.
Once I was on the right trail, it was clear it was the route to the ice formations – there were plenty of signs for the ice trail. The main trail diverts to a smaller, more difficult path to the features. With so many visitors, there were several false trails people created to explore other areas, making it difficult to know where to go. There were blue markers tied to trees, but there could have been more of them to clarify the official path. The snow-covered path was extremely steep and often ice-covered. It wouldn’t be an easy one if you have any knee or ankle injuries or little ones in tow. I found myself crawling on the ice to enter the rooms behind the ice curtains without breaking any icicles. Snow pants, boots, gloves and ice cleats are a must for this adventure.
The Valley of the Ice formations off of West Ridge Trail consists of a series of smaller rock shelters and ice curtains throughout this particular valley. You traverse the steep incline to find eight or more different icy scenes created from spring water dripping over the edges of eroding sandstone cliff sides. While the creek does appear to be frozen over, use caution on walking on it or you might fall through and have wet feet the rest of your trip. I recommend packing extra socks and shoes just in case it is a little slushy on your visit.
Hike distance: approximately 1 mile round-trip
Hike difficulty: easy hike to get to the base of the ice formation, requires ice cleats to hike on the formations.
Getting there: From the Kickapoo Valley Reserve Center Parking lot on Hwy. 131 (where you purchase a parking pass and get a printed map), turn left/north on Hwy. 131, then left on Cty. Hwy. P. This will take you to Weister Creek Road on the left and the parking area for the Weister Creek Ice Formations is just a couple hundred feet from the intersection with Cty. Hwy. P, also on the left. You’ll see trail markers and a spring (you must purify the water if you plan to drink from it) near the road. There is a wooden snowmobile bridge straight ahead; once you cross this, take a left into the field. You’ll see a very large oak tree in the distance and near that you will find the trail follows the stream to the right. Look for the blue markers tied to the trees and follow the half-mile trail to the ice formations. There are some steep inclines on this trail if you climb to get a closer look.
Hike distance: approximately 2.5 miles total
Hike difficulty: easy hike to get to the valley, but the slope paired with snow and ice conditions make the hike to see the ice formations very difficult; you cannot see them without traversing the hillside. This hike requires ice cleats to hike to the formations; it is also recommended to have water-resistant pants and shoes, too.
Getting there: Continue on Weister Creek Road and in several miles turn left on Plum Run Road. Take this a couple more miles to Corps Road on the left and pull into the Kickapoo Valley Reserve Maintenance parking lot on the left. (Another way to get there from the KVR Center is to turn south/right on Hwy. 131 from the KVR Center parking lot, turn right on N. Seelyburg Road as you come into LaFarge and Corps Road is the 2nd drive on the right).
It’s important to know that several trails converge in this area. You want to take the West Ridge Trail, which starts at the end of the parking lot farthest away from Corps Road. The hike follows a very wide multi-use trail for maybe a mile before signs point you toward a deer path sized foot trail in the woods. Remember to look for the blue markers tied to trees to keep you on the right path. The ice formations are all on the north-facing slope. The trail winds you back toward the parking area and eventually emerges from the woods, depositing you back at the same multi-use trail you arrived on, just closer to your vehicle. In total, the hike is approximately 2.5 miles in length, but it is extremely challenging. Ice cleats are necessary.
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